2005: trip to Nepal (1st ascent of Tengi Ragi Tau East, 6650m)

Leaving Chamonix the 16th of October, our objective was to climb a virgin summit on the left of Pahamlaka, summit we climbed the year before. We installed the base camp nearly two weeks later on a nice moraine at 4900m. We acclimated on Parchamo (6200m), an easy snowy ascent, and than started carrying our gear to the bottom of the pillar. After fixing a few pitches on a steep rock band, we went back to base camp for a few rest days… We left base camp with food for a few days and climbed the fixed ropes with to heavy back packs. It took us two days to ridge the top of the first tower, which is 600m high. The third day we were on top of the second tower but didn’t find any room to sleep we went down to the same camp. To tired to get any chance to see the summit, we decided to go down.

A few days later, Max asked me if I wanted to do another tentative, lighter, faster…while the rest of the team was starting a trek to locate new projects. We started the 18th early in the morning and climbed the first tower in a day. At midday the next day we were on new ground, and had to find the easiest way in this complicate mixed part. We climbed the impressive rocky prow by sunset and found a nice ledge for the night around 6400m. We got up early on the third day and started by night some steep mixed climb. At last, after 10 long pitches on the snowy ridge, we were standing on this huge virgin summit...

  • Period: all November month (summit on 20th)
  • Team: Sébastien Corret, Xavier Vimal, Louis Laurent, Maxime Belleville, Julien Herry
  • Itinerary: splendid virgin mixed pillar, offering a complete ascent from rock to ice climbing
  • Difficulty :TD + with sustained mixed climbing, rock climbing until 6b+ (5.10b)

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